How to Choose the Right Climbing Harness for Indoor and Outdoor Climbing
Let’s be honest—shopping for a climbing harness probably isn’t the part of the sport that gets your heart racing. But once you’re a few metres off the ground, it’s the one piece of gear you’ll be glad you got right. A good harness keeps you comfortable and secure whether you’re in an indoor gym or halfway up a cliff. So if you’re wondering how to choose a climbing harness that feels good and actually holds up, this guide’s for you.
First, Know What You’re Strapping Into
A climbing harness can look like a confusing bunch of loops when you first see one—but it’s simpler than it seems. There’s the waistbelt (goes above your hips), the leg loops (pretty self-explanatory), the belay loop (front and centre, where you clip your belay device), and a few gear loops for hanging things like quickdraws or carabiners. That’s it. Once you’ve got those basics down, choosing a safe harness becomes a lot less overwhelming.
Fit Isn’t Just About Comfort—It’s About Staying Put
If your harness slides around when you move or pinches you when you hang, something’s off. The waistbelt should sit above your hips and hug your body snugly—you shouldn’t need to yank it up every five minutes. The leg loops shouldn’t be so tight they cut off circulation, but they also shouldn’t feel loose or floppy. If you’re planning long gym sessions or outdoor climbs where you might be hanging around a bit, padding makes a difference. No matter how tough or technical a harness is, if it’s not comfortable, you’re not going to want to wear it. And honestly, a big part of choosing a safe harness is just finding one that fits you properly.
Fixed or Adjustable Leg Loops—Does It Really Matter?
Yes—and no. If you’re only climbing indoors or in warmer weather, fixed leg loops work fine. They’re lighter and simpler. But if you’re layering up for outdoor climbing, adjustable leg loops can be a game-changer. They let you tweak the fit depending on what you’re wearing, which is great when you’re out in the cold or switching from gym shorts to hiking pants. When thinking about how to choose a climbing harness, just ask: “Do I need this to work year-round or just at the gym?”
Do You Actually Need Two Different Harnesses?
In most cases, no. Unless you’re switching between sport, trad, ice, and alpine climbing every weekend, you probably don’t need a harness for every setting. For gym climbing, you’ll get away with a stripped-down harness—lightweight, fewer gear loops, no extra bells and whistles. For outdoor climbing, especially on longer routes, something sturdier makes more sense. If you do both, look for something versatile that sits in the middle. The right safe harness should handle a bit of everything without weighing you down.
How Many Gear Loops Is Too Many?
Depends on what you’re doing. If you’re gym climbing, you’ll probably use two gear loops—maybe just for a chalk bag and a belay device. If you’re outside and carrying gear, four gear loops will feel just right. Trad climbers might need even more to rack cams, nuts, and slings. Some gear loops are stiff for easy clipping, others are soft to avoid snagging in tight spots. Neither is better—it’s just about what kind of climbing you’re doing.
That Belay Loop? It’s the MVP
The belay loop is the small loop in the front that connects everything—and it takes a lot of force, every time you fall or belay. It’s also the part that wears out fastest, so don’t ignore it. Always check it for fraying or fading, and if it looks sketchy, it’s time for a new harness. It doesn’t matter if everything else looks perfect—if the belay loop’s shot, the harness isn’t a safe harness anymore.
For Long Days, Weight Starts to Count
Planning to hike into your crag or do long multi-pitch routes? That’s when you start paying attention to the weight of your harness. Lighter harnesses are great for travel or fast approaches, but they usually come with thinner padding or fewer features. If you’re belaying for long stretches or hanging on a route while working a move, you’ll want that extra cushion. It’s all about what you’ll actually be doing most often. Pick something you won’t dread wearing all day.
Women’s and Kids’ Harnesses Aren’t Just Smaller
There’s a reason harnesses come in women’s versions—they’re shaped differently. Women’s harnesses usually have a higher rise and different proportions between the waist and leg loops, which just makes them fit better. Kids are a whole different story. If they’re really young, a full-body harness is safer—it distributes weight more evenly and keeps them upright if they fall. When choosing a safe harness for kids, don’t go by looks or brand—go by fit and function.
Buckles and Adjustments Shouldn’t Be a Puzzle
After a long climb, you want to be able to get out of your harness quickly—not wrestle with it. These days, most harnesses have auto-locking buckles, which are quicker and safer than older manual ones. Still, it’s worth checking how the adjustments feel when you’re trying it on. If it takes too much effort to tighten or loosen, that’ll get annoying fast—especially with cold hands or when you’re in a rush.
How Long Does a Harness Last, Really?
There’s no one answer, but a good rule: check your gear regularly, and trust your gut. If the webbing feels soft, if the stitching’s coming loose, or if you’ve had a big fall on it, take it seriously. Most harnesses will last a few years if you climb casually, but if you’re on the wall multiple times a week, you’ll wear it down quicker. A worn-out harness might still “look okay,” but that doesn’t mean it’s a safe harness. Don’t risk it.
Final Thought: The Best Harness Is the One You Don’t Notice
You know you’ve found the right harness when you stop thinking about it. It doesn’t pinch. It doesn’t twist. It just does its job while you focus on climbing. That’s the real answer to how to choose a climbing harness—find one that fits, supports your kind of climbing, and holds up over time. Try on a few, ask other climbers what they like, and trust how it feels when you move in it. The perfect harness isn’t the one with the most features—it’s the one you forget you’re even wearing.
